shuchin　繻珍

KEY WORD :　art history / crafts

A satin textile woven with colored woofs to form a pattern, originating in Ming China. As more than seven colors were used, it was also called shichintan 七糸緞 (seven color thread damask). Some shuchin has raised woof and some has depressed woof. Sometimes gold thread was used for the woof with other thread coiled round, like *kinran 金襴 (gold-brocaded satin damask). Oudon 黄緞 (yellow damask), one kind of shuchin, popular among the upper classes since the Muromachi period, was woven with basic woofs of two thick cotton threads. Another example of shuchin is mouru ori モール織 (braid textile), introduced via a European ship from the South Seas in the 17c and woven with gold and silver woofs. By the Edo period it was used mainly for obi 帯 (sashes), and sometimes for *uchikake 打掛 (long outer garments) and it became less associated with the aristocracy.

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