katamigawari　片身替

KEY WORD :　art history / crafts

A popular simple, bold *kosode 小袖 design from the Kamakura through the early Edo periods using differently colored or patterned cloths for each side of the body. Originally the two pieces of fabric were divided vertically, but later sometimes divided horizontally or combined into a checkerboard pattern known as dan-gawari 段替 (stepwise variant). When used for sleeves, it is called sodegawari 袖替 (half-sleeve variant). The style probably originated in the Kamakura period as a way of reusing worn or damaged kimono 着物 but later was associated with high fashion. In the Momoyama and early Edo periods, katamigawari was popular for Chinese weave, karaori 唐織, *nou 能 costumes *noushouzoku 能装束. A similar combination of designs was adapted in such pottery styles as *oribeyaki 織部焼 and such *makie 蒔絵 styles as koudaiji makie 高台寺蒔絵.

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