kariginu　狩衣

KEY WORD :　art history / crafts

Also written 猟衣, 雁衣. Lit. hunting silk. Often translated as hunting robe. Originally a long, loose informal jacket worn by aristocratic men in the Heian period, it was based on a late Nara style called ou 襖 or shuou 狩襖. In the latter Heian period, such outfits of silk were called kariginu, and those of hemp cloth were called hoi 布衣. It was adapted by the samurai 侍 elite in the mediaeval era as their most formal outfit. It is thought that the kariginu first used in *nou 能 performances were those actually worn by samurai aristocrats. In the Edo period the kariginu was adapted for nou costumes *noushouzoku 能装束. The kariginu is made of a single width of cloth for the body, and double width for the sleeves. The back side of the sleeves and body are only partially attached. The waist belt is called the ateobi 当帯 or atekoshi 当腰. A string is run through the edge of a sleeve so that it may be tied or gathered during lively movement.

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