hanpi　半臂

KEY WORD :　art history / crafts

Lit. half arm. A sleeveless short undergarment for aristocratic men. From the Nara through the early Heian periods, hanpi had short sleeves, but from the mid Heian period when choufuku 朝服 (court dress) evolved into a Japanese style, hanpi developed into a sleeveless straight-edged form and were called sokutai 束帯. A small strap, kohimo 小紐, made of the same materials as the hanpi, was tied at the waist. The wasureo 忘緒 (forgetful strap), made of *ra 羅 (gauze), was attached from the left of the waist through the kohimo. Hanpi were made of silk *aya 綾 and ra. Hanpi used for *bugaku 舞楽 (court dance and music) costumes were made of luxurious materials. The *Shousouin 正倉院 preserves brocade *nishiki 錦, wax-resist dyed roukechi 臈纈, tie-resist dyed *koukechi 纐纈 and clamp-resist dyed kyoukechi 夾纈 hanpi. From the Kamakura period, brocade, embroidered and tie-dyed hanpi were popular.

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