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kinran@ŕćE | ||||||
KEY WORD :@art history / crafts | ||||||
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Gold brocade. Woven of patterns with gold or silver
woof on a plain ground of hiraori ˝D (plain fabric), ayaori ťD
(twill) or shusu ăq (satin). Kinran patterns are made by inserting
thin strips of gold-covered thread into the warp of every other row. There are
plain-weave gold motifs such as Chinese foliage *karakusamon
ś, peony scrolls, chrysanthemums, clematis, dragons, and paulownia. Swatch books
of famous fabrics *meibutsugire
ź¨ô preserved in temples contain examples of Chinese kinran. It is called
ginran âćE (silver brocade) when silver thread is used. There are two kinds
of gold or silver threads: hirakinshi ˝ŕ
(flat gold thread) and yorikinshi
Qŕ
(twisted silk thread with gold). Kinran was brought to Japan from China
during the Kamakura period by Zen T monks whose robes were made in Song dynasty
kinran. Kinran from this period was used for imperial court dance
*bugaku y costumes. Yuan
and Ming dynasty kinran and ginran were imported widely, given preeminence
among meibutsugire and prized in the tea ceremony. In ROKUON NICHIROKU
ú^, it is written that the first Japanese kinran was woven by a Kyoto
merchant in 1592. Kinran techniques were adapted in Sakai ä (Osaka) and the Nishijin
źw district of Kyoto. |
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(C)2001 Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System.@No reproduction or republication without written permission. fÚĚeLXgEĘ^ECXgČÇASÄĚRecĚłfĄťE]Úđ֜ܡB |
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